Literary Nonfiction: The Way of Curds
Written in 2007 for Anne Fadiman’s “At Home in America” seminar.
From the door, the interior of the whole building is visible: a gargantuan stove, a dairy-style floor drain, a steel vat, and an unusually large number of industrial garbage cans on wheels. Five cans stand by the entrance, lids sealed tight; one can stands in the corner with its lid off, allowing a black hose to trickle water over the rim. The floor is slick with the can’s overflow, and a sour, light-green smell hangs in the air, tinged with ginger and soy sauce. On the red cement floor, three buckets cluster around a device that bears a disturbing resemblance to a wood-chipper, and on the yellowed wall, a price list hangs: “unchicken, unturkey sandwiches: $3.50 each.” Over in the can in the corner, waiting, is a treasure trove of little golden beans, each the size of a fingernail and greedily absorbing water.
Tags: makers, sculpture, seitan, tofu
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